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Fiddling with spess setting

Lurchie

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jan 2, 2005
Messages
407
I received a lovely 3-stone spess and diamond ring set in platinum, which I posted in the SMTR forum: show-me-the-ring/oval-2-36-ct-spessartite-in-a-3-stone-platinum-setting-t146363.html

I'm preparing to approach the jeweler who sold it to us to talk about replacing one of the diamonds. My question for the CS experts is whether I need to worry about the spess itself? Should it be removed from the setting along with the diamond or can it stay put? Can it withstand whatever heat is necessary in the re-setting process?

I hope these aren't silly questions as I am a complete neophyte when it comes to colored stones!

Thanks!
 

Lady_Disdain

Ideal_Rock
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Jul 25, 2008
Messages
3,988
Gorgeous ring, Lurchie! Don't worry, there are no silly questions here, specially concerning the well fare of a stone.

I don't see any reason to unset the spess in order to change the diamond: it doesn't seem to be in the way of the prongs holding the diamond and, honestly, I avoid setting/resetting stones unnecessarily. There is no heat involved in setting stones, so don't worry about that.
 

Lurchie

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jan 2, 2005
Messages
407
Lady_Disdain, why thanks so much! Sounds like I've got nothing to worry about...other than what it will cost me. :wink2:
 

Michael_E

Brilliant_Rock
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Nov 19, 2003
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If this ring were white gold, then you would definitely be looking at potentially replacing some prong tips in removing one of those diamonds. White gold prong tips get pretty hard during the initial setting of a stone and with short prongs it can be very difficult to open them back up without getting some cracks at the root of the stone seat. Platinum is softer and less prone to cracking when bending prongs back and forth, so you shouldn't have a problem. If you were to have a problem then the jeweler will know about it prior to putting your garnet at any risk and it would be standard procedure to remove a heat sensitive stone like that prior to repairing anything with heat. Since the prongs are longer on the garnet it could be removed and replaced easily and with no ill effects to the garnet, should the need arise.
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Apr 22, 2004
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38,227
Most setting and unsetting work does not require the use of a torch. Your setting looks to be simple enough where the use of torch is most likely to be unnecessary. Does the benchperson have experience working with coloured stones other than sapphires?
 

mastercutgems

Shiny_Rock
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Jul 15, 2009
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356
Michael E is correct; IF it is 14 or even 18k white gold ( not 14 or 18k palladium mix)there may be an issue of a fracture at the seat of the notch; being that nickle and gold do not marry well and unless a radius is placed in the seat you can pick up a minute fracture in the seat. As huge as those side diamonds are i would make sure they are safe :wink2:

BUT you saying that is a platinum mount I do not fear the re-setting to be an issue as that is a dead soft metal and does not have the memory issues as white gold.

You should be very safe; but i am sure your bench jewelers will double check to make sure all is well; and even you can inspect it with a microscope before you leave the jewelers; just for your own piece of mind. Just look for any hairline crack in the prong at the bottom of the seat where the pavilion of the gem rests on the seat of the prong. It just never hurts to look for yourself...

Very lovely ring Lurchie; it is a wow ring and I am sure you are very proud of it...

Most respectfully;
 

Lurchie

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jan 2, 2005
Messages
407
Michael_E, thank you, that's excellent information.

Chrono, thanks. I'm hoping to have the same bench person who set the stones originally make the change.

Dana, thank you. I am consistently wowed by the ring and the gesture behind it. I'll be sure to check it out closely before leaving the jeweler's.
 
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