Does Metal Matter for Stone Type?

[minousbijoux]

First, please forgive such a fundamental question which has probably been asked and answered many times over here (only I don't remember seeing an answer).

I have three round green garnets that I am looking to set in rings. For these stones, I am drawn to art deco type settings like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Antique-Certified-1ct-Diamond-Platinum-Art-Deco-Engagement-Ring-/201212221890?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ed92ed9c2

My question is can I set grossular and demantoid garnets in platinum? Is there any rule of thumb with respect to a gem's hardness and type of metal to be used? I've been looking at antique settings on ebay and thinking that I could buy one and replace the diamond with one of the garnets. I am a total amateur when it comes to setting stones. Anything I need to know about?

 

[T L]

First, please forgive such a fundamental question which has probably been asked and answered many times over here (only I don't remember seeing an answer).

I have three round green garnets that I am looking to set in rings. For these stones, I am drawn to art deco type settings like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Antique-Certified-1ct-Diamond-Platinum-Art-Deco-Engagement-Ring-/201212221890?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ed92ed9c2

My question is can I set grossular and demantoid garnets in platinum? Is there any rule of thumb with respect to a gem's hardness and type of metal to be used? I've been looking at antique settings on ebay and thinking that I could buy one and replace the diamond with one of the garnets. I am a total amateur when it comes to setting stones. Anything I need to know about?

Unless you have a very good jeweler who understands the nuances of any gem softer than a sapphire, I would be careful mounting them in platinum. However, it really comes down to your jeweler. A bad jeweler can ruin a gem in 18K gold (softer metal) as well.

Hope that helps

 

[minousbijoux]

First, please forgive such a fundamental question which has probably been asked and answered many times over here (only I don't remember seeing an answer).

I have three round green garnets that I am looking to set in rings. For these stones, I am drawn to art deco type settings like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Antique-Certified-1ct-Diamond-Platinum-Art-Deco-Engagement-Ring-/201212221890?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ed92ed9c2

My question is can I set grossular and demantoid garnets in platinum? Is there any rule of thumb with respect to a gem's hardness and type of metal to be used? I've been looking at antique settings on ebay and thinking that I could buy one and replace the diamond with one of the garnets. I am a total amateur when it comes to setting stones. Anything I need to know about?

Unless you have a very good jeweler who understands the nuances of any gem softer than a sapphire, I would be careful mounting them in platinum. However, it really comes down to your jeweler. A bad jeweler can ruin a gem in 18K gold (softer metal) as well.

Hope that helps

I'm still searching around for a good jeweler close to me who does not cost an arm and a leg, so you're advice is well received. Thanks.

 

[InToTheMystic]

Agreed with the above. It really comes down to the jeweller. My engagement ring is a tourmaline (!) which is bezelled (!!) in platinum (!!!), which on paper breaks all the rules about how you should handle a soft stone. I had a very skilled jeweller however, and he set it perfectly undamaged.

My sister-in-law, on the other hand, had a diamond damaged by another jeweller when she had it put in a claw setting. In theory it should have been fine, but she's now going through a lengthy process of trying to get the jeweller to admit culpability and fix the situation.

 

[smitcompton]

Hi,

What about that Joe Escabar that Gypsy talks about. I don't know how far he is from you, but maybe if you try a search here for Joe Escabar, it might turn up.



Annette

 

[amyek]

I think I'd rather have a softer stone in plat for added stability (ex. demantoid). But I second the comment re. finding a skilled jeweler.

 

[minousbijoux]

Thank you all so much for your help.

I think I'd rather have a softer stone in plat for added stability (ex. demantoid). But I second the comment re. finding a skilled jeweler.

amyek: I appreciate this, as I was thinking just the opposite; that a softer stone might get hurt by such a hard metal as platinum.

 

[VapidLapid]

Slightly exaggerated here, but just for example I would not try to set a sphene in a platinum bezel. The forces required to push the metal over the stone would be far too much for the stone to bear. Even in prongs I would only trust someone who was the Yoda of settings.

 

[T L]

Slightly exaggerated here, but just for example I would not try to set a sphene in a platinum bezel. The forces required to push the metal over the stone would be far too much for the stone to bear. Even in prongs I would only trust someone who was the Yoda of settings.

I would also be really careful with fracture filled stones too, like emerald, and platinum.

 

[pregcurious]

I guess that means that spinel with platinum is starting to get risky?

 

[minousbijoux]

So given that the stones to be set are grossular garnet and demantoid garnet, what would you all recommend with respect to metal type?

 

[SparkliesLuver]

Just wanted to say thank you for asking this question as I'm going to (hopefully) start researching a similar thing soon.

 

[chrono]

Minou,
It's all about the skill of the jeweller. The safest is prong set because it is easier for a less experienced bench since less force/pressure required and there is more wiggle room. The only demantoid I've seen bezeled or gypsy set are in high karat gold because it is a softer and more malleable metal. If you want platinum, I'd probably stick with prong set which I've done so for mine.