Antique Golconda diamond and sapphire ring

gemandjewelrylover · Feb 1, 2014

Hi, all,

I found a ring, and I was wondering if anyone knew much about this type of jewelry, or had any weblinks to photos/pieces. I find a lot on Golconda diamonds but not much on this kind of finished pieces. Any info or weblinks would be appreciated.

What I know is:
It's about 150 years old.
It's Mughal/maharaja jewelry.
The gallery is 22 it gold, and the scrollwork was hand-cut.
The band is a gold alloy, since 22 ct gold is soft.
The blue sapphire is I believe natural, but it's rather dark so not great quality.

The ring really spoke to me, so I got it, but I can't find much info on it or this age/type of similar jewelry, so I thought I'd see if anyone here knew.

Photos below.

Thank you!

VapidLapid · Feb 1, 2014

I have serious doubts about this piece.

How do you know it is 150 years old? How do you know the "diamonds"are golconda, or even diamonds?
22ct gold IS an alloy. While the band may be a lower alloy, neither the band nor the scrollwork appears to be 150 years old, or hand cut for that matter. The scroll work looks to me to be bent wire that was fused and then roughly finished.
Are there lab reports for the stones? are there any makers' hallmarks? any verifiable provenance?

JewelFreak · Feb 1, 2014

VL said it. Or asked it, I mean. If those were Golconda diamonds, that ring would cost a hundred thousand; Type IIa diamonds are as expensive as you can get, plus the Golconda mine closed long ago so there are no more produced. Is there any kind of lab certification for it? I hate to say that from your photos, it doesn't look like skilled work face up & I can't imagine anyone ever having paired Golconda stones with a not-so-hot sapphire & goldwork of less-than-stellar quality. Crikey, maharajas wore those sparklers! Rich maharajas.

You might get more info on RT, but the color & lack of light return from the stones in your photo (though it could be photography, light, reflection of other stuff in the room) don't indicate Type IIa diamonds.

If it says good things to you & the price was acceptable to you, wear it & enjoy! Or if you bought it on those suppositions, you could return it if possible, or get a lab report, whatever pleases you.

--- Laurie

FrekeChild · Feb 1, 2014

I think I've seem similar pieces on ebay...you might do some searches there...

T L · Feb 1, 2014

I've seen very similar pieces being sold on Gem Shopping Network as well.

innerkitten · Feb 1, 2014

I think this is a modern reproduction.

gemandjewelrylover · Feb 1, 2014

Hi, everyone, thank you for the feedback. I guess I misspoke, I have it on hold right now – I did see online that a lot of Golconda diamonds are talked about as being completely colorless (Although I did see quite a few that are shown as being colored, like yellow or pale pink, too), and extremely high quality – and I realize the ones in this ring don't look like the ones that I find online that are described as the type IIa Golconda diamonds. So does Golconda refer to only a high-quality type of diamonds, from India?

I looked it eBay, but didn't really see anything similar. I don't have access to jewelry TV and those kind of shows.

So how could you get something like this certified? It doesn't come with a certificate, What kind of labs would be able to certify something like this? This doesn't seem to be the kind of thing you would send to AGL or GIA, or am I wrong?

I don't think there are any hallmarks on it.

Anyway, the ring is more beautiful in real life than the pictures. It's still at the shop so I can't take any other pictures of it at the moment.
I know the jeweler very well, and trust him completely. He knows his stuff, and gets really unique stuff in. But I do like to verify, which I was trying to do online, but can't find anything that is very similar to the ring in question. That's why I was asking here. And I thought PSers would get a kick out of seeing it.

Anyway, thank you for your info and insight.

patricias · Feb 1, 2014

There are many crude repros coming out of India. The sapphire is dark and not well cut, and the back of the piece looks pretty rough. The band seems to be a plain round band tacked on with a bit of solder. Don't buy it.

ilovegemstones · Feb 1, 2014

I agree with patricia and the crude soldering. I own an old mughal piece that was a wedding gift and even the back has intricate design work etched on it. Good thing you didn't buy it!

MollyMalone · Feb 2, 2014

gemandjewelrylover|1391309910|3606172 said:
Hi, everyone, thank you for the feedback. I guess I misspoke, I have it on hold right now – I did see online that a lot of Golconda diamonds are talked about as being completely colorless (Although I did see quite a few that are shown as being colored, like yellow or pale pink, too), and extremely high quality – and I realize the ones in this ring don't look like the ones that I find online that are described as the type IIa Golconda diamonds. So does Golconda refer to only a high-quality type of diamonds, from India?

Did you happen to come across Richard Wise's 2-part article abut Golconda diamonds? If not, here is part 1; link to part 2 is at bottom of the page:
http://www.rwwise.com/tgd1.html

If mughal jewelry appeals to you, you can do much better for yourself. Compare the crude workmanship in general & especially the gloppy-ness of the enameling on that ring with the carving & much better enamel work -- front and back -- on, e.g., these 2 pairs of earrings, even the (so far) much less expensive ones:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOST-BEAUTI...-RUBY-MOGHUL-ENAMEL-EARRINGS-NR-/200868268410
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ESTATE-22KT-CARVED-GOLD-DIAMOND-RUBY-MOGHUL-EARRINGS-NR-/201029572586

ilovegemstones · Feb 2, 2014

Those look like reproductions to me. a $1 starting no reserve sounds very fishy.

canuk-gal · Feb 2, 2014

HI:

I have a ring very similar to this--no sapphire in the centre, all diamond. Bought it in Palm Springs--as a repro/fashion ring.

cheers--Sharon.

FrekeChild · Feb 2, 2014

MollyMalone · Feb 2, 2014

ilovegemstones|1391365921|3606527 said:
Those look like reproductions to me. a $1 starting no reserve sounds very fishy.

Oh, I wasn't intending to vouch for their authenticity as antique; I posted the links as examples of Mughal-style jewelry pieces that aren't as crudely fashioned... sorry I didn't make myself clear.

ilovegemstones · Feb 2, 2014

Here are shots of mine. It is really old and heavy and is made with gold, rubies, emeralds, diamonds and pearls but the pearls are not original. It was a wedding present from a family member who bought it from an antique mughal jewelry collector in India. It was so fun to discover while wearing it one day that one of the stones is a star ruby!

VapidLapid · Feb 2, 2014

Here is what I like to see in mughal craftsmanship and design.

minousbijoux · Feb 2, 2014

VapidLapid|1391373358|3606584 said:
Here is what I like to see in mughal craftsmanship and design.

This is a whole 'nother level - these are stunning little works of art. Ilg, yours is nice as well - love the back on it.

Starzin · Feb 2, 2014

ILG - beautiful piece and what fun to discover that star ruby!!

Ah VL... yes, very lovely though I'd be bound to poke myself in the eye with the rings! Can't help but admire the workmanship though.

gemandjewelrylover · Feb 3, 2014

Hi, everyone,

Thank you for all the posts and advice. There sure is a lot of helpful advice, links and photos to compare with.

Patricia's – I think everyone concurs with you that I shouldn't get it.

ILG- wow, what a beautiful piece of jewelry you have, and how neat it was that you found a Star Ruby in it! What a great gift!

MollyM – thank you for the Richard Wise link and the eBay listings.

Canuk- gal- you have a similar ring? As a reproduction fashion ring? I like the style of the ring, so I'm sure it's pretty!

Freke – wow, thank you for all the eBay links. There are a lot of interesting a nice-looking pictures of jewelry there, with all ranges of prices, aren't there?

VL – wow, those are amazing pieces. Are those museum pieces? Or do you have those lying around your house? Lol they sure are stunning.

Anyway, I'm glad I checked in here, and I appreciate all the eagle eyes (experienced eyes) and everyone's comments.

Thank you!

JewelFreak · Feb 3, 2014

ILG, what a perfectly beautiful piece that is! I love your family member -- do you suppose he/she would like to adopt a daughter? I won't be any trouble if they feed me things like that once in a while!

VL, wow! A pleasure to peer at those. It's a wonder how jewelers manage to create them.

--- Laurie

VapidLapid · Feb 3, 2014

The first bird ring is articulated. the head rotates side to side, the tail moves up and down and the whole thing rotates! The rings are from The Al-Sabah collection.

eta. I had never seen these before. I found them when I was looking for examples of fine workmanship and design in mughal jewelry. I think these are extraordinary, and that many here would enjoy seeing them. I am now obsessed with them like some maltese flacon, er, falcon.

eta: The collection is on exhibit at the museum of fine arts, Houston, for any of you in that area
http://www.mfah.org/exhibitions/al-sabah-collection/

I can't seem to stop with the editing to add

The home site of the collection in kuwait
http://darmuseum.org.kw/dai/the-collections/jewelry-hardstone/

ilovegemstones · Feb 3, 2014

VL, great examples. I noticed my piece has a lot of hinges in the back too - the top and bottom are hinged and the gold piece that would hold a chain also has hinges on the top and bottom which makes me wonder if it was not a pendant before. I am going to get pictures off to someone who specializes in this jewelry, maybe the museum you mentioned, to get more info on the piece.

Jewelfreak, I will ask my uncle if he is interested in adoption lol!

gemandjewelrylover, maybe you can find a small one that is authentic. I have a small 1cm Mughal ruby crescent pendant that is from that period too and it is in a necklace now. I love antique jewelry!

minousbijoux · Feb 3, 2014

GandJL: Phew - thank God you decided not to get it!

omnishambles2 · Feb 13, 2014

Hi,
Glad to see you decided to not buy this one. Sapphires are associated with Saturn or Shani, bringer of bad luck (per Hindu astrology)This is why you hardly ever see traditional Indian jewelry with blue Sapphires, certainly not as a center stone. About the only times you see sapphire is in Navratna jewelry where 9 different precious and semi precious gems each representing one of the nine 'planets' or heavenly spheres. Mughal jewelry is entirely made of combinations of white diamonds, rubies, spinels, pearls and of course emeralds, green being the emblematic color of Islam.

JewelFreak · Feb 13, 2014

Interesting info, thank you!

gemandjewelrylover · Feb 13, 2014

Hi, all,

Yes, I did pass on the ring. Thank you all for the help!

Omnishambles2, yes, that is very interesting information. I didn't know that. So it's bad luck to have sapphires in Indian/ Mughal jewelry, unless they are offset by those other 8 types of stones to go with it? The sapphire wasn't that beautiful, but I thought the ring as a whole was pretty......a lot of it to do with it being an antique. Lucky I dodged that bullet! Lol.

VL, love those pieces you found. Can't get enough of royal/Mughal/celeb jewelry. Aw, heck, I love it ALL! I'm obsessed.....

Thank you all for your comments!

smitcompton · Feb 14, 2014

Hi,

VL, the pieces you posted are beautiful. I may become obseessed with that type of jewelry myself. Give me a bird!.

Annette

omnishambles2 · Feb 17, 2014

Gemandjewelrylover, You put it much better than I did! Yes- always in the presence of the other 8 gems.

I first happened upon your query as I was googling this issue- i am originally from India and I always wondered why never seem to spot any sapphires in Indian jewelry as I personally would like me some earrings. I have been lurking around Pricescope for about 2 years and have always admired how helpful the members are- I am very glad I could post something useful.

After I saw your response I looked around the interwebs some more and found a really interesting example of a blue sapphire in a mughal piece- a center stone no less! It is a turban ornament - referred to as a Sarpech- that serves the same purpose as a tiara does, a status indicator among nobility in formal settings. It was featured in a major auction at Christies and the provenance information shows that it dates from 1730-55 and was given as gift ( therefore custom made) by the ruler of Murshidabad in western India, Nawab Mir Jafar to Admiral Charles Watson.

It is likely that since the recipient was from the West, an effort was made to appeal to western taste and thus the blue sapphire and also since recipient was unlikely to share any superstition regarding the stone. I think this exception proves the rule!

I will upload the image in a separate post as am new or this.

I enjoyed looking this stuff up- hope you find this entertaining too.

omnishambles2 · Feb 17, 2014

copyright Christies

ilovegemstones · Feb 17, 2014

That is beautiful! There are no sapphires in my grandmother or mother's jewelry except one ring. Interesting!

Antique Golconda diamond and sapphire ring

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