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HCA - Defining the Beauty and Desirability of Round Brilliant Diamonds

Garry Holloway
Abstract
Introduction
Inverse Relationship
Previous Research
DiamCalc
Fire- & Ideal-Scopes
GilbertsonScope
Developing HCA
Brill, fire, scint., spread
Method
Brilliance
Fire or Dispersion
Scintillation
Spread
Summary
Table size
Girdle thickness
Fisheye
Culet
Adjustment to HCA
No Go Zone
Flawed cut grading
BIC and FIC
Seeing is believing?
Accuracy
Market values
Links & References
Holloway Cut Adviser

Links and References

Jasper Paulsen has done a fantastic job of putting the whole of Tolkowsky's 1919 book "Diamond Design" onto the Internet for all to read.
 
But not content with that, Jasper has programmed his computer to recalculate Mr. T's formulae without the errors from rounding. With the addition of a girdle he found that table sizes should be larger and crown and pavilion angles should be shallower than the original design. http://www.folds.net/diamond/index.html
 
http://www.cutstudy.com/cut/english/comp/index.htm is an MSU study of diamond cut. There are many wonderful free tools on this site too.
 
DiamCalc is software that models virtual polished diamonds and ray paths as well as create "movies" of a stone being rocked from side to side, a limited version can be downloaded for free from the OctoNus link on the above websites. http://www.gemology.ru/octonus/english/diamcalc/download.htm
 
Bruce Harding wrote an important article published in 1975 titled "Faceting Limits" http://www.gemologyru/cut/english/faceting/
 
For the best advice on proportions of fancy cut diamonds www.gemappraisers.com from David Atlas.
 

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